Day 7/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale - 3 Aug 2009

22.9km, 852m ascent, took 6.5 hours (no rest)

Good weather again. Seemed like luck was on my side. :) I had self-cooked breakfast (microwaved mushroom rice, bread, 2 apples) at YHA before setting off again. After clearing the food, my backpack had grown lighter. :)

Catching my breath from the airy rim of Malham Cove, I knew I was in for a sensational day's walk. The limestone country enveloped the walker, its springy turf and expansive views returning the investment made so far in weary legs and aching shoulders. Gone were the smog-blackened gritstone farmsteads of Calderdale and the Worth Valley. At last I was in proper walking country. This was what I liked best, something more familiar to me as well (from my several previous Yorkshire Dales walks). I got slightly lost at the top of Malham Cove, but soon found my directions back to the right path.





























The Way took me to the beautiful Malham Tarn: peaceful! The hills, too, were distinctively majestic. The massive bulk of 'Fountains Fell' and 'Pen-y-ghent' were real mountains, challenges that I overcame despite how sore my muscles were! It was up and down, up and down again. 2 mountains one after another was not a joke, not as easy as said. My left leg got worse after the descent of 'Fountains Fells', and I struggled up 'Pen-y-ghent' while enduring the pain. It was an amazing and unforgettable climb up 'Pen-y-ghent' - one of the famous 3 peaks in Yorkshire. Many couples, some with children, were conquering that mountain this afternoon. The steepest part involved some rock-climbing - gripping the limestone rocks with my hands and pulling myself up. It was scary, but I told myself not to look downwards.

The daunting climb with a series of steep rocky steps was soon over and it was followed by a long downhill stretch to Horton-in-Ribblesdale. I met a couple and then another man, and we chatted happily during the descent. It was only by walking alone, that we'd speak to strangers and meet new people. How interesting! :)









Finally, my hurting leg brought me to the destination for today. I bought some food and an ice-cream at a small shop before heading to the Golden Lion Hotel (bunkhouse) where I would be spending my night. An interesting bunkhouse: 3 tier beds, 15 per room with an attached toilet. The bathroom had no curtains! I quickly showered before anyone else arrived. And luckily I did, because 6 other males arrived shortly after. It felt so awkward to be the only female in a bunkhouse with 6 males that night.