Day 10/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Hawes to Tan Hill - 6 Aug 2009

27km, more than 1000m ascent, took 7.5 hours (2 x 5min rests)

I woke up at 0600. Crazy! Had instant noodles for breakfast before making my way out of Hawes, along the familiar route which I had done before (during the Hawes walk with Mark Reid). The weather was terribly hot today with occasional breezes, but it was just draining away all my energy! I perspired a lot --> not the usual me! Despite the scorching sun, I had to admit that this stage of the walk was remarkable. Satisfying!

The trek to the northern edge of the Yorkshire Dales took me past the village of Hardraw (3rd time there!), followed by the slog up to the 716m summit of Great Shunner Fell. Met some walkers. One of them was doing the top 10 peaks in Yorkshire, completing in 3 days. Wow! And I was surprised to learn that the Great Shunner Fell is one of them! The ascent was not too difficult as the climb was gradual with several slabs in place. The rest yesterday had probably played its part and I felt good today. :) While climbing the shoulder of the mountain, the views were fantastic: east to the Buttertubs Pass road; west to the distinctive stepped peaks of the northern dales.




















On the far side beyond the summit, cairns, slabs and peat brought me round to the enclosed perfection of Swaledale in whose verdant arms rested the quiet village of Thwaite - where I had an ice-cream at the Kearton Country Hotel's cafe --> recharging of energy in progress...













With digestion underway, the route led first through the hay meadows surrounding the village to soar high above the valley of the infant River Swale along the exposed shoulder of Kisdon Hill. It was a hard and cautious walk in this section, fearing that I might incur any sprains due to the uneven rocky path. Negotiating scree and rubble, the path dropped back to woodland and down to cross the river by a waterfall. I passed Keld (an isolated limestone settlement) where I forgot to make a right turn.

























Next, I rose above Keld to traverse the upland valley of Stonesdale, a muddy prospect at times, and then, with a final flourish, soared like a bleating curlew onto Stonesdale Moor.












The lonely silhouette of the Tan Hill Inn (Great Britain's highest inn above sea level) finally cropped up in the far distance. A very busy pub indeed! While checking into the bunkhouse (4 beds in my room), I guggled down a half pint of Black Sheep Theakston. I still prefer lager...Haa...








Dinner at the Inn (ham, eggs and chips + half pint of Fosters). Very full! Seemed that the bunkhouse was separated into male and female. Being the only female bunk occupant, I ended up having the whole room to myself that night. :)