The Ecstasy of Wilderness: Day 4/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Mankinholes to Cowling

31.8km, 692m ascent, took 10.5 hours (including 1 hour of rest)

The morning was greeted by a sunny bright day. Surprised. I left the hostel at 0720, checking out before the reception actually opened. Only had my breakfast (sweets and biscuits) when I set off. I retraced my tracks up to the top of Coldwell Hill, then approached Stoodley Pike. This landmark meant a lot to Pennine Way walkers. The 37m high spire marked a change in the countryside - leaving the peat moors (Peak District) behind and ahead lay the more pastoral scenes (Yorkshire Dales). How different! As quoted from my guide book: "Stoodley Pike is a dear old thing, solid, dependable, always there when you need it - a faithful friend. Who needs a dog? ..." Haha...hilarious! The view from the top was simply breathtaking. Pictures speak more than words.

Underway again, it was downhill into farmland and through light woodland to the Rochdale Canal. Calder Valley, with the unique Mytholm at the bottom, was simply beautiful! But the heftyand gruelling climb out of it had drained me. It was partly because of the warmer weather today - something which I couldn't stand, and now I hoped for some rain. How ironic! So I set off by zig-zagging up through Mytholm. Behind me, Stoodley Pike followed my every move and soon I left the valleyside and returned among the pastures where the incongruous council terraces of Colden rose into view, grittily embedded below Heptonstall Moor.

Once traversed, the peaty wastes dropped down past a reservoir to the sheltered confluence of babbling brooks at Graining Water, overlooked from one side by crags and from the other by the Pack Horse Inn - my lunch stop for an hour.

The initial regret of eating too much for lunch soon faded away after I realised that I needed more energy for the later part of the Way in the afternoon. After passing a series of reservoirs, the tedious climb of the tawny moors to Withins Height drained me further. Probably because today was already the 4th day and exhausion had slowly set in. Once crested, I was overwhelmed by a view of the dramatically situated ruin, with Haworth in the background.

Next, I dropped down to Ponden Reservoir. My feet was sore by then and I dreaded what was coming up next - the extremely steep climb out of the valley, onto Ickornshaw Moor. It seemed never-ending, walking over the moor, with several muddy sections. I was on the phone with Faith while scrambling over the moors. It helped to get my mind off walking somehow, which killed my boredom. :)

Several shooting huts were spotted before the descent to Cowling and Ickornshaw, passing a waterfall at Lumb Head Beck. Finally!!! The walk took longer than expected. Tiring! Checked in to Woodland B&B after getting some food from the Minimart just across the road. Very nice B&B; red carpetted. Was served refreshments when arrived. I was so thirsty...was actually craving for beer during the last hour of the walk. I had a very comfortable night: TV, doublebed, ensuite bathroom, ... Just love it! Too bad couldn't go B&Bing every night --> would result in a BIG hole in my pocket!