Hadrian's Wall 24km Walk - Hexham to Heddon-on-the-Wall - 18 Sep 2009

Today's walk was a last minute decision made just yesterday. Did research on it last night and this morning. Weather was pleasant for walking - cloudy, however the absence of sunlight and poor visibility caused the bad turnout of photographs.

I hopped on the bus which took me to Hexham. The walk out of the town, crossing Hexham Bridge over River Tyne, was a pleasant one. I took on the Hadrian's Wall Cycleway Path before finding my way to the actual Hadrian's Wall Path (for walkers). Although it was a cool day (12 degree celsius), I was perspiring due to the occasional jogs and ascents.














When I came upon the Path, I ran into a couple from Manchester who was doing the entire Hadrian's Wall walk. We found several common topics involving hill walking and we happily shared the experiences of our previous walks. It was only beyond Halton Shields where we spilted as they were stopping for their lunch break. I carried on eastwards.

This section of the Hadrian's Wall Path was one of the easiest and straightforward walks I'd ever done. In terms of gradients, it was almost flat except for some dips and ascents. I followed along the edges of arable farmland and beside the modern B6318 - a military road. The heavy traffic as well as aeroplanes above (preparing for landing at the nearby Newcastle Airport) had disrupted the peaceful countryside walk. As expected, Hadrian's Wall walk was BORING! That was why I never bothered doing the entire Path despite its convenient location (with respect to where I am living).

































After a 5-hour brisk walk/ jog, I reached Heddon-on-the-Wall which was just on the outskirts of Newcastle. I waited for the bus to take me home, concluding my day's walk. Not much highlights, except for some reservoirs near Harlow Hill. I had completed 24km in a quick 5-hour period: Not bad. That was an achievement really...

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Day 20/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Byrness to Kirk Yetholm - 16 Aug 2009

40km, 1620m ascent, took 10 hours (no rest)

Couldn't sleep well last night - anxiety for today's walk. I had not covered so much distance in a single day before, moreover, the challenging Northumberland terrain! I got up at 3plus am (SIAO!), and waited till 5 plus am for daylight. Had a heavy breakfast - essential calories for later.

Set off 0545 in the dim daylight, and ... got lost at the start! Had made a wrong turn and the more I walked, the more I felt I was not on the correct Pennine Way path. I detoured, wasting about 30min. The wind had picked up as I gained height. Fog set in too, together with the irritating drizzle. I didn't feel good at all. Thoughts of giving up kept bugging me especially when I was at the initial part of the terrible boggy terrain. My boots had become wet within the first half hour. Sigh...would have to endure that for the next 10-13 hours!




Although I gained height while still half asleep, the steep ascent to Windy Gyle, followed by the intermittently slabbed climb to the Auchope Cairn duckboard promenade took the wind out of me. The excessive slabbing had indeed helped make the single day's effort more achievable. Thanks man! The final significant climb up The Schil had been very demanding. My tired legs could no longer maintain the rhythmic ascent. I chose to stop several times to catch my breath. Altogether the day had involved a total of over 1600m ascent (or a vertical mile). Despite how exhausted I got, I chose to jog at some easier sections, hoping to end the ordeal as early as possible. I could feel the pressure I was giving to my bad ankle. It will get worse...but it's the last day so who cares?

























The heavy rain which got me TOTALLY DRENCHED inside out came and went, bringing the bright sun in, making the last section of my walk a pleasant and encouraging one. :) I realised the beauty of the Cheviots then!



















I dragged my feet into the FINAL destination - Kirk Yetholm (in Scotland!) Hooray! O-V-E-R...OVER! Satisfaction... Mmmm... Couldn't believe that I had just walked up all the way from Peak District! Crazy me, but it had been challenging. Indeed, the Pennine Way is Britain's most challenging long-distance route! I signed the guestbook in Border Hotel and received a certificate of completion (didn't expect this actually). As always, walks would end with a pint - BEST (Scotland's lager). I only paid the price for half a pint as the other half was the courtesy of the Hotel...how nice! :)










Got a cab to Berwick and then a train to Newcastle. Sun Wen and Faith were home...how nice to have friends around after a long walk. :) So, what's next? Great Glen Way (Scotland) in next Easter definitely! 6 days for that --> nothing challenging after been through a 20-day walk...Haaa....

Cheerio, for now!

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Day 19/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Bellingham to Byrness - 15 Aug 2009

24km, 544m ascent, took 6 hours (no rest)

The first half of the walk was the boggiest and muddiest I'd ever been through in my life. The rain and fog was not helping in any way. I just hated the Northumberland then. What a terrain! It was amusing at first to get both boots wet within the first half hour, and followed by crossing over boggy wet fields (with legs sinking/ being sucked into the mud up to nearly my knee level at times). But after such terrain persisted for hours, it got on my nerves and I was not very happy about it any more. It was stated in my guide book that this easy yet occasionally thrilling section was just what a personal trainer would recommend prior to the upcoming trans-Cheviot marathon (tomorrow!) OMG! I wondered how challenging the terrain would be tomorrow. It sounded very scary!

The walk began today, by climbing out of the North Tyne Valley onto the moors. It meandered through knee-deep heather over Deer Play, Whitley Pike and Padon Hill. Foggy and wet...not good!!!




Then the horrible part: The short, steep and sodden ascent alongside Redesdale Forest, leading to a interminable slalom of bog- and puddle-dodging between the plantation's northern edge and a fence. It was IMPOSSIBLE to keep my boots dry. The terrible ordeal ended with a Forestry Commission sign, welcoming Pennine Way walkers. Thanks ar...


The weather improved as I started along the long forestry road. Memories of Kielder Forest returned. How beautiful Northumberland was! What a contradiction lor!












I finally converged with Blakehope Burn carpark, before the woodland and riverside walk towards Byrness. Just before reaching the YHA, I took a different approach and I couldn't see any bridge over the river, hence stupidly stumbled into some horrible forestry terrain. Got my way out by doing some crazy stunts: pushing down some big stones which were part of the wall in order to climb over it and I found my way back to the proper bridge. That was probably illegal - destroying/ damaging stoned walls. Shh....







The YHA was a SUPER hygienic and eco place. I got told off for using the tap too long. Quite angry, but it was my fault. The beds were very comfortable though, and I had a 2-bed room to myself. :)


I made a last-minute change of plans for tomorrow: I would go all out to complete the last part of the Pennine Way. It had been planned to be done in 2 separate days initially, as what most walkers would do. Why? Because it would be a 40km, boggy and involving many up-and-downs across the Cheviot Hills! It was a crazy decision made but I hoped I could do it! Finishing 1 day earlier and saving on 1 night of B&B sounded good. :) Good luck to me!

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Day 18/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Bellingham - 14 Aug 2009

Did nothing much today as what the words "rest day" implied. Visited Bellingham Tourism Information Centre and its library. Then stayed in the bunkhouse's common sitting area and completed reading "Winged Escort" by Douglas Reeman. Very good and engaging storyline! It had been a very wet day today. Glad to be indoors. :)

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Day 17/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Once Brewed to Bellingham - 13 Aug 2009

24.1km, 504m ascent, took 6 hours (no rest)

My partial recovery of my left leg was incredible. It had become so much better after yesterday's rest. I felt very enthusiastic to resume the Pennine Way again. I seemed a little addicted to walking now. Haa...

The weather started off sunny, maybe a little too hot for walking actually. I perspired so much today (probably because of my high water intake yesterday) while climbing (up and down, up and down, ...) the Hadrian's Wall. This section of the Wall was the best preserved part and it was packed with tourists/ walkers. The frequent climbs and drops, many steeped, accounted for the day's exertions.





















Soon enough, I reached Rapishaw Gap and forsook the wall-walking throng, north towards sunless forests and some fine walking, though very muddy at times. My gaiters saved me this time from getting wet boots. Thank goodness! The weather had turned more cloudy, but fortunately no sign of rain. Best for walking! :) My transit through Wark Forest generally avoided the main gravel drives for more agreeable and shady trails. Haughton Common was a sunlit interlude and when I emerged from the forest ahead of Stonehaugh, the now not so distant Cheviots could be seen to the far north.




















Here ensued a pleasant mixture of pasture, farmland and quiet lanes until a radio mast indicated one more climb - Shitlington Crag. Thereafter it was downhill all the way to the town Bellingham - old market town on the North Tyne; many (relatively) shops and services.



















Checked in at Demesne Farm bunkhouse - also part of YHA. Quite a nice place to live in with a well-equipped kitchen and sitting area. I was happy to learn that I'd be spending 2 nights ALONE in my 4-bed room. Privacy! Nice!

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