Day 14/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Dufton to Alston - 10 Aug 2009

31.4km, 1069m ascent, took 9 hours (no rest)

It was the worst day so far: Leg condition worsened; terrible weather; camera nearly got spoilt. I had thoughts of giving up, but...NO WAY...!!! Woke up at 0550. Had eye bags - didn't sleep well last night. Some nightmares; some lady snoring in the room, ... Quickly, I set off under the gloomy skies after a heavy cooked breakfast.

It began gently enough along farm lanes and byways skirting around Dufton Fell. I entered the thick overhanging fog above a certain height. Visibility dropped to 10-20m, drizzle became rain, and wind grew stronger as I ascended further. A terrible storm - the worst weather I could ever get at the mountain top! Along the whole Way, I only met 2 pairs of walkers coming from the opposite direction. No one else would be crazy enough to climb the mountains in this adverse weather condition! I had to admit: I was very frightened, cold, totally drenched (including my waterproof boots). The poor visibility had greatly reduced my confidence level. I tried to calm down and think carefully before I walked because any mistakes would land me in great trouble! I was proud that my navigation skills had improved, at least I didn't get lost! :) I relied heavily on my compass bearings today! Thank so much, my dear compass!







The sharp haul up to Knock Fell, then to Great Dun Fell, next to Little Dun Fell and finally to the highest point of the Pennine Way - Cross Fell (892m) seemed to take ages. 4 hours in total for 4 climbs! I couldn't see anything, no views, nothing. Even the gigantic radar station at Great Dun Fell only became visible to me when I was so close to it...and I got a VERY BIG shock! I was terribly scared then...









Once off the summit plateau and securely installed on the miners' path (Corpse Road) leading past the famous Greg's Hut, the visibility improved and the sun finally decided to wake up, even though it was still drizzling. Greg's Hut was a welcoming and well-maintained bothy where walkers took refuge. I entered to have a peep, and met a couple in there having their lunch break. Chatted for a few minutes before proceeding on. They were doing a 3-month walk from John O'Groats to Land's End (if you don't know where these places are, go look up on the UK map and you will be shocked!)



Corpse Road was a never-ending, rough, stony track which took me more than 2 hours of fast walking. The name definitely spoke for it. It finally ended happily at the diminutive haven of Garrigill where I decided not to stop and carry on the momentum straight to Alston. Couldn't wait to remove my soaked boots. I was quite relieved that the long walk would be over soon till I suddenly realised that my camera's screen couldn't work! It had been damaged from the rain earlier even though it was inside my waterproof jacket's pocket! Oh dear oh dear...I was really in a foul mood then. Thoughts of heading straight home occurred to me because I felt that it was pointless to continue without a camera!







Then after about half an hour, I tried turning on the camera again, and WAH...it was back to normal! I started exclaiming to myself!!! My nightmare was over now. I just had to concentrate on getting my weary and painful legs to Alston. It was the tedious negotiation of overgrown paths punctuated with numerous stiles, sprung gates and other walkers' traps that made me realise the condition of my left leg. I had started to limp quite badly. 2 problems: Thigh muscles not working (had to use my hands to lift it up when going over stiles); Ankle starting to swell (the previous spain in Hawes had worsened). Despite all these, I pushed myself on till I reached Alston. Bought some groceries from Co-op to stock up. Arrived at YHA. Dinner, rest! I hoped I can push on till the end...Hiaz...