Day 13/20 The Pennine Way 429km - Langdon Beck to Dufton - 9 Aug 2009

22.2km, 461m ascent, took 6 hours (no rest)

A quick instant noodles and soup for breakfast at the YHA before I set off for one of the best walking days! Brilliant day - not too hot, sun was out but hidden behind the clouds, simply perfect for walking. :)

I rejoined the track where the Pennine Way continued, crossing the Tees and heading into the wilds of Upper Teesdale as it took on the character of an upland Scottish burn. As the valley enveloped me, at times I found myself squeezed almost into the river itself as a trio of ankle-twisting rockfalls edged me awkwardly towards the running waters. Challenging yet really fun! The continuous 'music' of running water was a great companion for relaxation. I was glad that I started off early, away from all walkers. I'd the marvelous scenery to myself...how selfish...but I liked it! :) It had made me smile (naturally). A wonderful peaceful walk...





Leaving those rocky hurdles behind, round a corner, I came face-to-face with the splendidly named Cauldron Snout churning down a series of jumbled rocks. Scrambling up alongside, the roar of the foaming torrent drowned out all other sounds. I felt like a climber then! How fun was that!
















Now beneath the dam wall of Cow Green Reservoir which fed the waterfall, the wilderness was temporary muted as I scooted along the access road to the isolated farmstead of Birkdale. Once through the farmyard, I was out on the open moors again, facing the mild climb to a crest alongside Rasp Hill. The river Maize Beck glistened in the dim sunlight and after a few soggy placements, I rejoined the stream, then over the footbridge.








This next section excited me: I'd be reaching the colossal glacier-carved abyss of High Cup Nick. I'd seen pictures of it in books, yet the emergence of it sent shivers down my whole body (I'm not joking!) It was just..too amazing to be true! It was a WOW from photographs, but it was a WOW WOW WOW when it was right in front of my eyes. The massive glaciated valley dropped away in a U-shaped due to erosion. The sides were rimmed with strata of hard rock, basalt or dolerite, interspersed with jumbled scree and twinkling rivulets. From the head of the valley, Maize Beck trickled down. Simply incredible!
























The walk ended at the tiny village of Dufton - a quintessential English hamlet with the inviting Stag Inn where I had some soup and Carling (yeah!!) while waiting for the YHA to be opened. A much tougher day awaited me tomorrow...