Day 4/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Rosthwaite to Skiddaw House - 16 May 2010

20.8km, took 7 hours (inclusive of 1 hour rest at Keswick)

I had a superb buffet breakfast at Borrowdale YHA and a great chat with a couple from Blackpool about hillwalking. I was so addicted to maps and could stare at them for hours without getting bored. The outside looked gloomy/cloudy, but there was no sign of wet weather. Good! I sat by the window in my bunk room and tried doing some revision as I waited for 10am to arrive before I set off once again. There was no point starting off early today as Skiddaw House YHA would only be opened from 5pm onwards.

Drizzle started when I began walking...so raincoat ON...but it wasn't long before it was OFF as the drizzle halted and I was perspiring after some intense climb. I had decided to take the high route (around Castle Crag) instead of walking along the river. There was no regret making that choice as the view from the top of the climb was really fantastic. I gave up the thought of making the ascent to the top of Castle Crag (after realising how steep the climb was, and guessing that the descent would kill me as usual).














The descent through the woods took me to the delightful lakeland hamlet of Grange. The next section of the Way was straightforward and easy, bearing around the bay of Derwentwater. It was quite busy with walkers heading to/from Keswick, and that wasn't very appealing to me - too touristy (where's the wilderness?).















Upon arrival in Keswick, I had a glimpse of the Pencil Museum (I think I have been there before, have I?). There was a Jazz Festival going on in the town centre, and it was packed on the Sunday's afternoon. I took a break and spent about an hour browsing through shops and had a short lunch bite. I was glad I ate because I hadn't expected the upcoming tough climb to Skiddaw House.




The climb resumed as soon as I left the town. It was on-going and quite steep initially. I took a slow constant pace, hence there was not much exhausion. A great view of Keswick and the lakes was enjoyed after the steep climb through the trees. More gentle climbs across an open section followed, with a magnificent view of Skiddaw (mountain) ahead.



















After some fantastic walking, I found myself on a path halfway up the steep-sided valley of the Glenderaterra Beck. Lonscale Crags reared above. The mountain was all deep, dramatic ravines and soaring ridges, an awesome sight, simply irresistible to any fellwalker (like me!).














A final left bend revealed the lonely and spartan Youth Hostel - Skiddaw House where I would be spending my night. This was not what I had expected! This hostel was the highest YHA in Britain. It did not have any electricity supply and had no vehicle access. To summarise, it was a very unique and ancient building. I was even more surprised to find out that I was the only occupant tonight. The nearest town was Keswick (where I had walked from) and that was 3 miles away! Toilet, common room, kitchen, shower room were all unique and I couldn't explain exactly how it felt, but that feeling was so simple and homely. I cooked my dinner, then spent the night in the common room, sitting by the lighted fireplace and chatting with the owners of the house. I really recommend everyone to have a go in spending a memorable night there. It was true wilderness, being surrounded by mountains and the sound of silence ringing through the night. Not a single light spotted around the house!