Day 3/6 The West Highland Way 152km - Rowardennan to Inverarnan - 23 Mar 2009
>> Wednesday, 22 July 2009
This was the best part of the West Highland Way, at least in my opinion. The 8.25 hours walk, including a half an hour rest at Inversnaid, took me along the beautiful eastern banks of Loch Lomond. It was a lovely wooded walk along the shore, away from both traffic and tourists.
Inversnaid overlooked Loch Lomond and the spectacular mountains beyond. It had a spectacular waterfall with a small ferry terminal bringing passengers across to Inveruglas on the western banks of the loch. I would love to spend a night there, but the plan was to head to Inverarnan by tonight.
The weather in Scotland amused me: It was drizzling, then sunny, then drizzling again, and sunny once more. This unpredictable weather is a trademark of Scotland. How interesting!
The rocky and winding path towards Inverarnan had a reputation for being one of the hardest sections of the Way. Fortunately recent path improvements had made it significantly easier. The path wound through woodland across steep craggy slopes leading down to Loch Lomond. It was wild scenery marred only by the noise from the busy road on the western shore. I passed Rob Roy's Cave - has a rather concealed entrance, supposedly a hide-away of the Highland hero, quite a scramble to get in there, and not much to see.
Near Doune Bothy, the woodland opened out giving far-reaching southerly views. The trail then climbed away from Loch Lomond to a wide pass before descending into Glen Falloch. Soft scenery dominated by water and woodland gave way to the rocky fells and mountains views of the Highlands.
Everything was well except that my hurting ankle was getting worse. The pain had now moved upwards to my knee. Sharp pain rushed up to my knee with every step I took. It was still bearable, but it was worrying me as I was not even half way completed. Worse case, take a bus lol...
Finally arrived at Inverarnan - Beinglas Campsite where I would be spending the night in a wigwam (bunkhouse). It was a pity that the campsite did not have a shop, hence I had to cross over the river to a self-styled 'world famous' Drovers Inn for dinner. It was a cosy pub with an eccentric mix of smoke-blackened walls, sagging velvet-covered chairs, moulting stuffed animals with bar staff wearing kilts and t-shirts. I had haggis for dinner and Fosters...haaa!! I just love haggis, though hated by many. After a filling meal, I 'limped' back to my wigwam (meant for 4 occupants, but I was lucky to have it all to myself that night :) ) A very interesting experience sleeping in a wigwam - a small wooden shelter with heating and mattresses inside. The heater did not seem to be working well, hence it was a cold night shivering in my sleeping bag. Brr.... And worse of all, my right leg!
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