Day 2/4 Northumberland Coastal Path 103km - Belford to Craster - 30 May 2009

The yummy Craster Kippers started off my day. I chose to try that instead of the typical full English breakfast. And indeed, the kippers (fish) tasted uniquely wonderful, though a little too salty for my taste buds.

The walk from Belford to Craster took me 9 hours (with a 15 min rest), covering a distance of 32.4km. Some walkers whom I met thought I was mad to cover that distance in a day. I thought so too. It was a bit pressing but still manageable if the terrain was alright. As forecasted, the weather was sunny and hot. I did not learn my lesson from yesterday, and carried on without sunblock...Something which I terribly regretted!









It was probably the best day of walk. I was taken aback by the scenic Bamburgh beach (Budle Bay) - one of the finest beaches on the Northumberland Coast, an award-winning beach with a vast expanse of spectacular golden sands. Although packed with families having a sunny weekend out at the beach, this was a magical area, disturbed only by the wind and the sea as it lashed against the towering cliffs, where the only other sound was of the screeching gulls above. It was a region, that once visited, touched the soul, and to which you would return again and again.

The spectacular village of Bamburgh, with its coastal castle dominating the 16 miles of golden sand dunes and beaches, has several gift shops, grocer, butcher, newsagent, plant nursery, restaurants, pubs and a cricket pitch, all within walking distance of the village green. Bought an ice-cream along the way before I continued on towards Seahouses.


























The route became familiar after I reached Seahouses. Memories of my previous year's walk in the opposite direction flooded back. It was nice to be doing the same thing again because it always felt different every time you do it. These were some of the photographs taken for the route towards Beadnell where I had my lunch by the coast.





After passing the village of Beadnell, I started the long walk along Beadnell Bay - a beach now popular with families and water sports enthusiasts during the summer months. This was an alternative beach route towards Newton Link House. Next, I passed Low Newton-by-the-Sea - a haven for birdwatchers and beach goers; a village with a grass square surrounded by cottages and a pleasant pub in the corner. By then, the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle and the wide sweeping bays of Embleton had emerged in the distance. I headed towards Embleton - a village sheltered from east winds by an undulating whinstone ridge which resembled a caterpillar. This was where I spent my 2nd night during my Northumberland walk last year.
























And finally, I headed towards Craster, this time taking the road route which I kind of regretted later. It was tedious and boring without much to see from inland. By making that wrong decision, I missed the best section of the path which passed just beneath the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. But I consoled myself later as I had done it last year and the weather then was perfect too. :)

I eventually found my direction to Proctors' Stead Campsite by 7pm. It had been a long day and I felt that my shoes were giving me the same old problem again: Its ankle support was too stiff...maybe I should loosen my laces a bit in future. Fortunately no injuries, just fatigue! I checked in at the campsite and was taken to where I could set up my tent. So it was a night of camping (this time during the summer). It was still cold during the night (about 12 degrees celsius), hence I only slept for 4 hours with several waking-ups. I had become very tanned by then: 2 very distinct colours on my face caused by sunglasses! Oh dear, it's irreversible!