Day 1/6 Great Glen Way 117km - Fort William to Gairlochy - 20 Mar 2010

Putting all frustrations of school work aside, it was time for "another escape into the wilderness"! I needed some quiet time out of the busy cities, away from all the noise and pollution, and to get as many breaths of fresh air as possible.

The Great Glen Way begins in Fort William - quite far up north in the Scottish Highlands, all the way to Inverness, hence 2 extra days were set aside just for travelling to and fro. This hike was somewhat different: doing it with another friend (Shyam). This is something I wouldn't be confident about if it was 1-2 years back. I would probably have got everyone lost from time to time. Haa...anyway, I believe I'm a much better planner, navigator, .. now. :)


Yesterday: The 7-hour train ride to Fort William was never-ending. It was a hassle changing at Edinburgh and then Glasgow. Had to rush to catch the connecting trains due to the delayed train from Newcastle. Got a bit of motion sickness but it was finally OVER once we stepped out into the open - arrival at Fort William at 10plus pm. It felt good to be back here again...it was the end point for last year's West Highland Way, and now the start point for the Great Glen Way which we were about to embark on. Checked into Fort William backpackers hostel, before putting down my thoughts in my diary and retiring to bed. Some excitement lingering...but only just a little...probably because I couldn't completely let go of the stress back in Newcastle....Hiaz...

17km, 40m ascent, took 4.5 hours

After a quick breakfast and brief stroll, we set off from the relatively busy Highland town of Fort William in the shadow of Britain's highest mountain (Ben Nevis). The weather was perfect: It got cloudy with slight drizzle, but the sun finally came out and temperature rose to about 20 degC! Wasn't able to believe how warm it was after experiencing months after months of close to 0 degC temperatures.












It was an easy day's walk, with a simple riverside path and a short coastal path. We paused at a playground and took on the swings. I thought, it would be perfect to spend my childhood here, by the coast and the snow-capped mountains, with the abundance of fresh air. Simply wonderful!




























The next section of the Way was a clear and obvious canal-side track, passing locks after locks. First was Corpach Double Lock, followed by the famous Neptune's Staircase. The latter is a famous tightly packed series of 8 canal locks. We were so lucky to pass just in time when a canal cruiser was going through the last lock. It was taking so long to drain out the water and I guessed it really tested the patience of both crew and passengers. It was said that it takes about 90 minutes for a cruiser to pass from the top to the bottom. Unbelievable...how can one be so patient!?!




















We continued the hike along the Caledonian Canal and reached the attractive May Swing Bridge. It was amusing when we realised how close we were to our destination for the day - Gairlochy. Not wanting to appear at the doorstep of the B&B too early, we took a break near the Bridge. Scenery was amazing: Tall breech trees graced the canal-side. Looking back, Ben Nevis rose majestically from the Great Glen.


























We arrived at Gairlochy (Dalcomera B&B) after climbing past another lock. The host was extremely friendly. The 2-course evening meal was great and very well-done. We also borrowed DVDs to watch them in our ensuite room. 'Rob Roy' was one of the movies. It had a bridge/waterfall scene which was filmed somewhere close - where we could make a deviation to visit the place tomorrow. :) Had a good night sleep...looking forward for more challenging walks in the next few days... :)

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As I Walk ......

I am not aware of my feet touching the earth, but am always looking ahead surveying the ground and intuitively place my feet where necessary. I look at all my surroundings, the hedges, trees, flowers and stop and observe the birds and animals that cross my path.

I see the wren calling in the hedgerows. I see the wild flowers growing throughout the seasons. I hear the call of a green woodpecker that sweeps ahead of me across the field. I near a scratching squirrel and call to it and watch him watching me briefly, before running and leaping effortless to a tree and up its bark. I follow and watch him hiding and ascending the tree, before swinging off onto another tree branch. I surprise a pheasant, who surprises us both and shrieks taking to the air urgently. I stop and admire a bee orchid growing alone on the field edge, knowing it is rare and must not be picked, for it will die.

I follow the path down to a brook and cross the footbridge and stop and gaze at the water to see if anything moves here or along the banks. Sometimes I see a fish, a water vole and occasionally a kingfisher - a mere flash of blue, but nevertheless a wondrous sight. I walk further and as I round a bend in the path in woodland, I surprise six roe deer who prick their ears, snort, and run away only to stop moments later to look again at this intruder in their world.

I marvel at these sights and sounds, which make me both joyful and humble at seeing the living unspoilt world, of which we all connected.

I walk beside a barbed wire fence and notice the sheep's wool caught on the barbs, as they either squeezed through or reached for a succulent piece of grass.

I watch the trees sway in the light breeze, the leaves flutter gently. I gaze at the fluffy clouds that glide across the sky. I walk in the cool damp air, but all is enjoyable and serene. Then suddenly the sun appears, and for a brief moment, illuminates my world and can see everything in its vibrant colours. As though showing me what is there and be patient. The clouds roll in and I am left with the magic of those priceless seconds. My heart is full of love for sharing this moment.

I walk on just looking and admiring all that my eyes see. I know I am guided and watched over, for I never put a foot wrong. I just walk with no preconceived ideas and no expectations. I just let it all happened in its own good time, which makes me very blessed at what has occurred.

I visit a church and are humbled at the workmanship and the story of the woodwork, stone and memorials. I touch the font and feel its story and energy.

As I walk though woodland and stop and rest by an oak tree and feel its trunk against my back. I feel its energy and wisdom, and say a prayer and touch it gently with my hand.

As I near the end of the walk I turn and raise my hand and say good-bye and thanks for allowing me to visit and enjoy your surroundings. It has meant much and I shall return to explore further and watch the unfolding kaleidoscope of life that exists there.

I walk and give thanks that I am able to do so with my body and mind. It is all a deep and profound experience without end.

Copyright - John Merrill- 9/2/2010

"May you go in peace, with joy in your heart and may the divine be always at your side."

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