The Ecstasy of Wilderness: West Highland Way

Finally, it's ending soon! While leaving Kinlochleven, I got lost for about 30 min. Read the guide book wrongly and took a false non-WHW track up to some waterfall. Blamed myself terribly! It was a great waste of time and effort climbing up and down steep slopes with running water. Stupid stupid stupid!

Eventually I realised my blunder and set off officially at 0745. Reason for leaving so early was to catch the 2.15pm bus from Fort William back to Glasgow that day. There were no trains in the late afternoon, hence catching that crucial bus was my only option.

The beginning terrain was unforgiving. It made me lose my motivation completely! It was a tough and long sustained 250m climb out of Kinlochleven on a steep winding trail through birch trees. I paused several times to catch my breath and rest my injured leg. The thought of getting a bus straight to Fort William was so real and I nearly turned back down several times. But then, there was an inner voice that kept reminding and encouraging me to push on to the end! It was just 1 last leg, why couldn't I endure the pain and finish the entire Way with pride? Lots of struggle physically and mentally to get to the top, which I finally did! Phew! Now the temptation to return back to the village had disappeared. I would have to endure to the end no matter what circumstances I faced!

The Way proceeded on a wide track - old military road - which traversed the mountain side with glorious views over Loch Leven to the mountains of Glencoe. From there, the trail rose gently through a wide U-shaped valley to a broad pass - the Lairigmor (330m). I was walking really fast today, surprised. I guessed it was the desire to end the whole walk as soon as possible. My leg still hurt but the pain had become less intense and bearable. I would say it had become numb.

Weather was sunny in the first hour. However, Scotland's everchanging weather turned bad - started pouring heavily, very strong wind, then HAILING! Oh my! My thermometer read 7 degrees celsius! Unbelievable! The wind was blowing against my face and hence the ice cubes were hitting straight onto me. Very painful! I had to use my arms to shield my face from the irritating hailstones.

The Way then descended to a junction where there was the option of taking a short cut by the road all the way to Fort William. The original/ proper Way looked rather unappealing from the climb up through the dense conifer plantation. Hence I kind of cheated and took the easier route. However I realised the easier route was not as simple as what I thought. Northern Scotland's roads were never flat. They went up and down, up and down steeply. I guessed that was due to the mountains-infested land...Haaa!

A seemingly long 5-hour limp eventually took me to THE END - Fort William! Rain welcomed me - all drenched. It cleared up after some time. Had a picture with the 'End of WHW' signboard. That was very important and the completion meant a lot to me! This long distance walk was more of a challenge than an pleasant stroll. It tested my limits and endurance level! I did it! I did it! I did it!

While waiting for the bus back to Glasgow, I did a bit of shopping around and bought 'Turtie' - Nici soft toy for Faith. Heex. :) Lunch next. The cost of the bus fare shocked me. 19.60pounds! Fortunately I had enough cash with me then. The bus ride took a total of 3.5 hours. This 3.5 hour ride was very nostalgic and emotional. It passed through the places where I had trekked in all the 6 days. 3.5 hours VS 6 days! What a difference! I missed home now, couldn't wait to get back. Hopped onto the train back to Newcastle, changing at Edinburgh. Mama (Faith) was at the train station to receive me! :) :) :)

This 5th day walk presented a superb (best), yet challenging section of the West Highland Way. According to my itinerary, this day would cover the longest distance out of the 6 days - 35km. I took a total of 10.25 hours, including a 45 min lunch break at Kings House Hotel.

It started easily with pleasant walking over a small ridge to Inveroran Hotel and round the head of Loch Tulla. Just beyond Victoria bridge, an old cobbled drove road slowly ascended on to Black Mount - a rising of high moorland between the western large mountains and the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor to the east. This track carried me direct and dry-shod across this desolate landscape. This was the remotest and wildest section of the whole Way. I felt I got quite bored after some time, being immersed in the same snow-capped mountains scenery for hours.

From the highest point of 445m, the Way descended to the main road and the isolated Kings House Hotel with views to the stunning mountains of Glen Coe. The path skirted to the east of the mountain entrance passing close to Glencoe Ski Centre - a particular insensitive development in such immensely beautiful surroundings. Mmm...maybe skiing there next winter??? Anyone interested?

Lunch at Kings House Hotel was a great relief for both my stomach and spirit. My leg was hurting terribly by today, and I needed lots of rest. I was greeted by the welcoming 18th-century drovers' stop and had vegetable pasta and soup ---> got standard! While having my meal, I heard a helicopter landed, and in came a few males in uniform. I realised they were from the Royal Navy, after I left the Hotel and saw a Royal Navy helicopter just beside the Hotel. How cool! They could just land it anywhere, since there was so much space in Scotland.

From Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, it was spectacular walking across inspiring mountainous terrain. Weather was neither good nor bad. No rain, but was cloudy. The long walk along the A82 highway was unpleasant, but it was soon over before I reached the foot of the Devil's Staircase. This interesting Staircase marked the highest point on the West Highland Way. The ascent of 259m up the south side of the ridge between Kingshouse and Kinlochleven was feared by many Way walkers. Although it was a sustained climb, it was not as bad as what the name suggested. It was an interesting ascent. Zigzag and zigzag...which got even steeper towards the summit. It was cloudy, but fortunately clear. :)

From the top, it was a long descent across rugged mountainside and then on a steep track down to Kinlochleven - an ugly, modern village set amidst dramatic Highland scenery. The descend was horrendous: too rocky! My injured leg was not helping at all. It was terrible! I was frantically screaming at the top of my lungs. But I was very determined to persevere on till the end since I've come that far. Eventually, I reached the destination for the night and was greeted by a impressive view of 6 massive water pipes leading to the village. That was a relief!

I checked in at Blackwater Hostel - quite a nice cosy place. Met another American girl (exchange student from Edinburgh university) who was doing exactly the same crazy thing as myself: a female conquering the West Highland Way alone. I was actually very happy to see someone doing the same thing as me. It somehow proved that I'm not the only crazy one. We had dinner together (got some microwaved chicken brani from Co-op).