The Ecstasy of Wilderness

Day 5/5 East Highland Way 125km - Kingussie to Aviemore - 29 Sep 2011

2011-09-20T19:15:00.015+01:00

29.9km, took 6.75 hours

My legs hurt terribly when I stepped out of the B&B. Fortunately, the pain grew milder with more walking. A long day lay before me. Weather was perfect for walking - no rain, breezy, some clouds, mild sunlight.

When leaving Kingussie, the gantry for railway line came down before me. Haa...I felt like a vehicle then. Shortly after, the train came. Choo Choo!!! The preserved Ruthven Barracks stood tall on a hill. Very impressive ruins!

The route followed the Badenoch Way, connecting a varied range of paths through open moorland and mature broadleaf forests. After passing by sleepy hamlets and descending through forestry plantations, the route arrived at the shores of Loch Insh where the Watersports Centre was. I had rushed my way uphill along the forest trail as I made a stupid extra lap/detour, wasting 20min! I was hoping to reach my destination on time or even earlier. Perspired under my ski jacket..HOT!!!! I also saw a dead deer lying on the road. Argh...so poor thing!

The final leg of the East Highland Way was through well established forest tracks which provided glimpse views of the Cairngorm foothills. Navigation was fun and easy! :) I came upon the amazing island castle of Loch an Eilein - how I wiah I could live inside. Imagine being surrounded by water, that'll be super cool! The route finally descended towards Aviemore through forests and open fields, leaving only a short walk to town by a pleasant cycle path to complete the journey. I checked into Dunroamin B&B, went to the optician to fix my broken spectacles, and had my dinner + 2 pints of Scottish beer! HIGH! Now...it's recovery time... Both my legs had swelled due to very bad water retention. Pooo!!!! Nevertheless, the 5-day walk had been a rewarding one - an escape into the wilderness as well as adding one more to my long list of walks. ~Pat~ I've done it again!

Day 4/5 East Highland Way 125km - Feagour to Kingussie - 28 Sep 2011

2011-09-20T19:14:00.021+01:00

29km, took 8 hours

A full Highland breakfast started off another day. I got a lift back to Feagour where I ended off my walk yesterday. A lovely sunny day fortunately, but I thought it was too warm and windy for walking. Anyway it would be a 'great photo-taking day'. The trail ascended through the Black Woods to an excellent vantage point. From the Spey Dam, the route turned eastwards across level farmland, approaching Laggan Village via a quiet tarred road. How interesting to pass close-by the hotel I stayed in last night. The lift from Feagour by car took me 10 min, but walking back to Laggan had taken me almost 2 hours! My legs seemed to hurt less today - painkillers taking effect, cooool!

The next lengthy section to Newtonmore came in a mixture of extremities: getting 'lost' when making my way past Cluny Castle; a big WOW as I stepped into the open moorland of Strath an Eilich (surrounded by mountains and far away from civilisation); crossing rivers after rivers and ended up wading through them and getting both my boots soaked with cool refreshing water; hoping across the SUPER boggy unclear track beside Glen Banchor; walking in soaked boots for hours; seeing 'gancheong' sheep fall into the river and couldn't get out despite many attempts. HAHAHA!

Scotland never fails to disappoint me. Her scenery always has the WOW factor within. The East Highland Way was even better as there was not a single soul to be seen! Anyway, I was very lucky to be doing this section of the Way today when the weather was dry. If it had been cloudy and wet, I would be intimidated when hiking between the mountains. Thank god!

After passing the town of Newtonmore, the route continued east along a level cycle path, with the broad floodplains of Badenoch opening into view. I arrived at Kingussie later than expected, checked into the Hermitage Guest House, had a very tasty Sirloin Steak + Stella pint (SUPERB!) at a pub... and got very demoralised when my spectacles broke (got to rely solely on contact lens now...) What a day!

Day 3/5 East Highland Way 125km - Tulloch to Feagour - 27 Sep 2011

2011-09-20T19:13:00.015+01:00

27.2km, took 6.5 hours

I bid farewell to the friendly owners of the Station Lodge after a home-cooked breakfast. I thought I saw a kangaroo (about 10m ahead) when making my way through the trees to the highway. Haa..probably a deer. How could it be a kangaroo? DUMDUM me! I took the shorter route - a 4.8 miles walk along the highway, passing the majestic Moy Reservoir dam, and heading towards Moy Bridge where I crossed over to the southern side. Sad to say, the weather was bad today: non-stop drizzle, low-hanging clouds, very gloomy.

The next section of the track which twisted uphill was exciting. The wind picked up, giving me the creeps. The East Highland Way is indeed a very new long-distance route. Up till today, I'd not met any walkers. How strange!

I descended to the western shore of Loch Laggan. The track was wide and rough underfoot, skirting around the southern edge of the Loch. The long walk got boring, but an SMS from a close friend boosted my morale and propelled me on, despite the pain from every step I took. :)

The highlight of today's walk was the fairy-tale castle (actually a large private family estate). My jaws nearly dropped when its enchanting sight appeared before my eyes. WOW WOW WOW!!!

Leaving the Loch, I entered a small forest before heading out into an open farmland. The weather got better and the true shades of the hills added flavour to the whole walk. The Pattack Falls were not as impressive as expected, but it indeed could be a great bathing spot during the summer. I got a pick-up from Monadhliath Hotel (Laggan). My feet needed lots of rest. Dinner was Steak and Scottish Ale. Tasted really great to be very honest...

Day 2/5 East Highland Way 125km - Achluachrach to Tulloch - 26 Sep 2011

2011-09-20T19:12:00.015+01:00

9.1km, took 3.5 hours

I was stunned by the view from the breakfast room windows: the magnificent mountains where I came from yesterday. WOW! The weather can really change my impression of the whole place.

I decided to leave earlier than planned as the weather was just TOO perfect! Re-tracing my steps back to the suspension bridge, I took the East this time, going over ditches and even climbing over fences (just couldn't open them!!!) Drizzle caught up unfortunately, but the rainbow appeared at the right time - just when I was snapping a photograph of the Achnacochine ruins.

Then came the 'WORST' part of the day:
1) Crossing the mouth of 2 streams. Very scary (slippery stones beneath the running water). As expected, I got both my WATERPROOF boots soaked with cool refreshing water! :(
2) I had a hard time (almost an hour) trying to look for the 'well-hidden' forest gate which led me to a charming part of the walk which had its own enchanting character. It sucked to walk with WET boots, but luckily, today would be a short day.

I dragged my hurting legs up the steep forest trail - tracks were not obvious initially, but they became clearer further uphill. The route gave me the feeling that the East Highland Way was hardly trekked by walkers: no way-markers, few footmarks, truly remote and exciting! :) The sun came out once again and revealed the beautiful mountains when I reached the highest point on the forest trail.

The descent took me down to Inverlair and it was a pleasant road-walk to Tulloch where my accommodation for the night was - Station Lodge. I had my lunch and dinner at the hostel - HOME-COOKED MEALS, and GREAT HOSPITALITY! I also learnt that I was the only one in for tonight. Oh, not just me... and the ghost.. COOOOOooolll...

Day 1/5 East Highland Way 125km - Fort William to Achluachrach - 25 Sep 2011

2011-09-20T19:08:00.027+01:00

28.5km, took 7 hours

A full English breakfast awaited me in the morning at the guest house. Set off, 'all ready to go!', from Fort William's Gordon Square. A highly-urban walk out of the town. As time passed, the number of vehicles reduced. A good sign - I'm approaching the countryside. I was rewarded with fine views of Ben Nevis to my right - the highest mountain in the UK. It was a pity the visibility was not perfect due to the on-and-off drizzle.

The way followed a section of the Witch's Trails - no idea why this name, but it was just a never-ending forest track to me. The track narrowed, making the walk slightly more interesting.

The better part of the day's walk was the open stretch approaching Spean Bridge. Great views of the surrounding hills kept my morale high and pushed me on despite some exhausion. I took the longer alternative route - via the forest trail, ascending about 100m high before descending to Spean Bridge. I didn't drop by Spean Bridge as I rather skipped the short detour than having a proper lunch rest there. I snacked on titbits as I made my way through some farmlands, with River Spean running parallel. Drizzle picked up and the paths were becoming muddy. Saw 2 rainbows today though. :)

Upon emerging from the forest, the rain grew heavier and the wind picked up - I was walking just below the rolling hills..that's why! I was totally drenched from the rain, but thx to my waterproofs! The views were dramatic - would be perfect on a sunny day, too bad the raindrops were too heavy for my camera. Hiaz... My left leg was hurting - boots pressing on my bone above my ankle. I told myself: Push on! The route got more remote and seemed to be steering away from the River Spean. Didn't seem right.. Shit! I think I'm lost.. and in the horrible weather! I was cold, very drenched, leg hurting... To add on, the route got SUPER muddy. I didn't care to avoid the mud any more. My boots splashed and sank into the muddy tracks. "Mmm...don't make sense - I flew so far to the UK to experience this kind of torture, I think I'm mad!"

Ah!! I saw a farm! Maybe I was on track all the while. Scared myself! Phew! Yes, I didn't get lost! I crossed over a suspension bridge over the stunning Monessie gorge. The bridge was indeed suspended: It shook with every small step I took. Really scary!

I dragged my hurting legs to Glenspean Lodge in the rain, and was not expecting the unexpected: The staff said that I was only booked in for tomorrow, and tonight was already fully booked. What??!!??? He re-checked the emails which I sent to him, and fortunately, there was evidence of my booking for tonight. He managed to give me a double room. Like that also can...!!!

Dinner: Deer meat with haggis with Scotland's darkbeer "BEST". Shiok! Tomorrow will be a short day - hopefully there's some time for recovery.

Day 4/4 Cleveland Way (section of the Way) 54km - Osmotherley to Carlton - 2 Jun 2010

2010-06-03T17:46:00.008+01:00

11.5km, took 2.75 hours

After breakfast with all the cheerful coast-to-coast walkers, I left Osmotherley. The bright sunny weather was a total contrast from yesterday's. However, I got a bad start. When caught in a junction in South Wood, I had wanted to take the higher route which seemed to be the right one as shown on my map. Two male walkers came by and said that the lower one should be the right one (quite confidently). I took their advice which I blamed myself terribly later.

I need to learn to make my own decisions sometimes. I should be confident by now after all my experience from the past 2.5 years of rambling in the UK. Hiaz...

Anyway, I persisted on along the wrong path whose terrain grew from bad to worse to quite impassable! I did not turn back because I thought I had come that far and should be able to find an alternative route back to the official track later on. The ground was of soft mud at some places and my right leg sank straight into it. It remained dry inside, saved by my gaiters. It was not too long before both my legs went deep into another muddy section. Gone case lah! I looked and felt terrible then! I wondered why this had happened on my last hike...maybe because my very first hike was like that, so I had to end it the same way too! Argh!

I was totally demoralised when I felt the damp mud seeping into my right socks. The gaiters had not helped after all. I made a decision then: to detour to the nearest village and find my way home. Hence, I walked to Swainby, then took the A172 to Faceby and finally to Carlton. At Whorlton, I stopped by at Crossbank Riding Centre hoping to do some hacking but they said they no longer provide hacks. :( I hoped on the bus to Northallerton (met a very helpful and friendly driver whom brightened up my lousy day) and then got the train back to Newcastle.

What a weird way to end all my hiking in the UK. I threw away my muddy and 'partially worn-out' gaiters too. With this, I end my rambling hobby and I hereby conclude and close my blog. Happy reading folks, and I hope my entries have been helpful to walkers who appreciate the wilderness just like I do. Cheerio...

Day 3/4 Cleveland Way (section of the Way) 54km - Boltby to Osmotherley - 1 Jun 2010

2010-06-03T02:43:00.007+01:00

15.2km, took 3.75 hours

It was a very wet and low visibility day. After a good breakfast at the B&B, I left Boltby in search of the shortest way to rejoin the Cleveland Way. Wanting to do short-cuts, I ended up at Boltby Reservoir where forest tracks were going in all directions, and unfortunately not listed on my map! I had to get my compass out in several situations to make sure I was not walking in circles. I passed a group of 4 horse-riders, trotting and walking. I envied them silently.

After 1.5 hour, I finally found the official well-built track leading out of the forest. It was a great relief. I emerged on moorland at Steeple Cross. Visibility had worsened and rain had grown heavier. It was a pity that the extensive moorland views were blocked by the thick fog. I trotted on, picking up my pace, hoping to get out of this terrible weather as soon as possible.

The path ascended and descended gently, passing a forestry plantation before emerging briefly onto a road beside a carpark at Oakdale Head. I slowly blended into the urban surroundings as I approached the village of Osmotherley. There were some really steep climbs but I pressed on, knowing well that I would be reaching my destination soon.

The village was smaller than expected and I headed to the YHA straight away despite knowing that it would not be opened till 5pm. It was located at the outskirts of the village, not very near, sadly. :( While waiting for the reception to be opened, I took a shower, dried my wet clothes and boots and spent the remaining hours in the TV lounge. I had dinner in the YHA with many coast-to-coast walkers who were sharing thousands of interesting encounters. Envied them...I would have done that walk if I could afford 2 weeks more. But now, there's no time left. :(

Day 2/4 Cleveland Way (section of the Way) 54km - Hambleton to Boltby - 31 May 2010

2010-06-03T01:34:00.014+01:00

14.4km, took 3.5 hours

Lots of thoughts (about the upcoming group project presentation) were clogging up my mind and the excitement about returning to Singapore continued to keep me awake throughout last night. I got up at 5am for no particular reason and couldn't return to sleep after that. Breakfast was at 8am and I started off shortly after.

A brilliant day once again, windy but much more sunshine than yesterday. Leaving the A170, a path followed an ancient dyke cutting through the forest to emerge on the edge of the escarpment, taking me by surprise! I should have predicted that though, based on the narrow contours alongside the Way - those were high-soaring cliffs overlooking west towards Yorkshire.

An official detour led along past the gliding club to the viewpoint above the famous White Horse. I managed to hear and spot a few gliders up in the sky...so cool, imagine taking up flying/gliding as a sport! The White Horse was kind of a let-down as I couldn't see the whole horse due to its enormous size and the location of where I was standing. I probably had to climb all the way down or hover in the air in one of those gliders in order to catch a full glimpse of it. I retraced my steps back to rejoin the Way.

I was walking at a leisure pace today. There was no urgency as today's walk was a brief one. I arrived at Sutton Bank and spent some time in the Tourist Information Centre shop. I bought some cute handcrafted gifts and browsed through the exhibitions on display.

Beyond Sutton Bank, the straightforward path followed the edge of the escarpment with magnificent views out across the Vale of York. Bright yellow fields brightened up the fantastic day. I took a forest path which led down to Boltby. This was not part of the Cleveland Way, but was the most direct route to Boltby - where I would be staying tonight. The forest path was quite challenging: steep descent, very uneven, muddy at places...seemed to be a terrain for horse-riding, rather than for walking. Hiaz...talking about horse-riding, I couldn't get a slot to hack today because of the busy bank holiday. Sad... :(

I arrived at Boltby and realised something: No stores, no pubs...only houses! Mmmm...I guess I would be skipping lunch/dinner today then. I checked in at 'Town Pasture Farm B&B' and was given an ensuite triple room (1D+1S). Very clean and pleasant-looking accommodation! I spent my afternoon washing up and taking a 2-hour nap, before continuing my reading ('Key of Light' by Nora Roberts). Great book!

Day 1/4 Cleveland Way (section of the Way) 54km - Helmsley to Hambleton - 30 May 2010

2010-06-02T23:49:00.011+01:00

12.9km, took 2.5 hours

This is my last hike - to celebrate the end of my undergraduate examinations as well as to conclude all my wonderful rambling in the UK. This hike may not be an outstanding one, but I am doing it because I have done the second section of the Cleveland Way, so I thought I should perhaps complete the beginning section of it from Helmsley to Kildale.

It was not easy getting myself from Newcastle to Helmsley: 1 train and 3 buses, about 3.5 hours of travelling time (a great hassle really...) The Moorsbus took me past 'Roseberry Topping' - the uniquely-looking hill which I passed last December. It was covered totally with snow then. I actually took some time before realising it was 'Roseberry Topping'! How different it had looked in summer!

I finally arrived at the busy market town of Helmsley. It was an interesting place with many unique, ancient shops. The Cleveland Way started at the cross in the market square before climbing gently uphill across fields and through woodland. Nothing exciting though. Fortunately the weather made the walking a pleasant one, but perhaps a little too windy!!!

The Way then merged with a minor road, over Rievaulx Bridge, and into a nature reserve where pools were created to attract wildfowl. I even noticed a few men out with fishing nets! The first steep climb through a forest led on to a lane that took me to Cold Kirby. It was not long before I arrived at my destination, Hambleton. After passing the Inn, I reached Cote Faw B&B - a homely accommodation beside the noisy A170. The garden was lovely. I was given a small cosy single room and could use the lounge downstairs to watch TV and do some reading. I was glad I did not have to study at night, unlike my previous Cumbria Way one. :)

Day 6/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Caldbeck to Carlisle - 18 May 2010

2010-05-22T01:55:00.007+01:00

24km, took 4.5 hours

I was determined to finish off the Cumbria Way. After a quick but filling B&B breakfast, I started off towards Carlisle in the hot bright sunny day. 25 degC! It felt quite horrible walking briskly in the heat and I was so afraid of getting a tan. Flies were all around me and they really irritated me as I cut through woodland and farmland. It was also a boring stretch, and low-lying all the way.

The River Caldew accompanied me throughout the walk as I passed through several villages - Sebergham, Rose Castle, Bridge End, Dalston. I also passed a fortified pathway pinched between the river and the railway. The Carlisle-to-Maryport train zoomed past minutes after, sounding a horn seconds before passing.

The last section was along the Caldew Riverside Trail, leading me all the way to Carlisle city centre and the Castle where the Cumbria Way ended! I'd to admit that the ending was a let-down, but the middle section of the Way had been one of the best walks done ever! The constant pace I took had done good to my legs as they were totally fine (which was usually not the case for my previous 6-day walks). Anyway, I caught the earliest train back to Newcastle and arrived at about 4pm. Time to catch up on my revision, do my exams, and prepare for the next hike straight after my exams: Cleveland Way (first few sections of it)... Heehee...

Day 5/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Skiddaw House to Caldbeck - 17 May 2010

2010-05-21T20:08:00.012+01:00

16.8km, took 4.5 hours (inclusive of 15 min rest at High Pike summit)

I left Skiddaw House after a memorable night in the ancient house. Great views and sunshine welcomed me as I headed north alongside the infant River Caldew amongst the lush heather. It was true wilderness and there was no sign of civilisation in sight.

At the turning point where the track joined a tarred road/carpark, I saw a few cars and some people having a nice day out by the river surrounded by the fells. I turned west and faced a steep and rocky climb up Grainsgill Beck. Some scrambling involved at the later part, but it was fun and challenging! I had done several of such similar terrains, so it was not as scary as it looked. A rough climb up to Lingy Hut (once a grouse shooting box and now provides shelter for weary walkers) was indistinct, but I managed to traverse right onto a stony track eventually. Phew!

Clear tracks took me up the grassy slope to High Pike summit - the highest point on the Cumbria Way (657m). It commanded an extensive view northwards across the Solway Firth to the Scottish hills and eastwards across the broad Eden Valley to the lumpy Pennines. The brillant day allowed clear visibility of 360 deg. Lucky me! I spent 15 minutes at the summit, popping down some snacks while appreciating the bird's eye views around me.

The descent from the summit was one of the easiest that I'd done so far. High Pike had gentle slopes with hardly any rocky outcrop. I continued the descent northwards, and got distracted by the extensive views ahead, hence started heading slightly north-east and got OFF-TRACKED! Compass came to play then, and I tried locating Nether Row by some guessing on how that small village would appear in reality. I couldn't believe I was heading in the wrong direction! I turned north-west and then westwards, and was fortunate to come upon the proper track which led me safely to Nether Row. Heng ar...

The final stretch towards Caldbeck was easy along roads. The massive bulk of High Pike became more evident from behind. I spent a few minutes browsing through the mini gift shops in the village, and also bought some snacks from the village store. 'The Briars' B&B where I spent my night was comfortable. I had a TV in my single room as well. A final easier day tomorrow, but before that, my 'behind-time' exam revision had to be caught up. Argh...so irritating!!!

Day 4/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Rosthwaite to Skiddaw House - 16 May 2010

2010-05-21T16:04:00.023+01:00

20.8km, took 7 hours (inclusive of 1 hour rest at Keswick)

I had a superb buffet breakfast at Borrowdale YHA and a great chat with a couple from Blackpool about hillwalking. I was so addicted to maps and could stare at them for hours without getting bored. The outside looked gloomy/cloudy, but there was no sign of wet weather. Good! I sat by the window in my bunk room and tried doing some revision as I waited for 10am to arrive before I set off once again. There was no point starting off early today as Skiddaw House YHA would only be opened from 5pm onwards.

Drizzle started when I began walking...so raincoat ON...but it wasn't long before it was OFF as the drizzle halted and I was perspiring after some intense climb. I had decided to take the high route (around Castle Crag) instead of walking along the river. There was no regret making that choice as the view from the top of the climb was really fantastic. I gave up the thought of making the ascent to the top of Castle Crag (after realising how steep the climb was, and guessing that the descent would kill me as usual).

The descent through the woods took me to the delightful lakeland hamlet of Grange. The next section of the Way was straightforward and easy, bearing around the bay of Derwentwater. It was quite busy with walkers heading to/from Keswick, and that wasn't very appealing to me - too touristy (where's the wilderness?).

Upon arrival in Keswick, I had a glimpse of the Pencil Museum (I think I have been there before, have I?). There was a Jazz Festival going on in the town centre, and it was packed on the Sunday's afternoon. I took a break and spent about an hour browsing through shops and had a short lunch bite. I was glad I ate because I hadn't expected the upcoming tough climb to Skiddaw House.

The climb resumed as soon as I left the town. It was on-going and quite steep initially. I took a slow constant pace, hence there was not much exhausion. A great view of Keswick and the lakes was enjoyed after the steep climb through the trees. More gentle climbs across an open section followed, with a magnificent view of Skiddaw (mountain) ahead.

After some fantastic walking, I found myself on a path halfway up the steep-sided valley of the Glenderaterra Beck. Lonscale Crags reared above. The mountain was all deep, dramatic ravines and soaring ridges, an awesome sight, simply irresistible to any fellwalker (like me!).

A final left bend revealed the lonely and spartan Youth Hostel - Skiddaw House where I would be spending my night. This was not what I had expected! This hostel was the highest YHA in Britain. It did not have any electricity supply and had no vehicle access. To summarise, it was a very unique and ancient building. I was even more surprised to find out that I was the only occupant tonight. The nearest town was Keswick (where I had walked from) and that was 3 miles away! Toilet, common room, kitchen, shower room were all unique and I couldn't explain exactly how it felt, but that feeling was so simple and homely. I cooked my dinner, then spent the night in the common room, sitting by the lighted fireplace and chatting with the owners of the house. I really recommend everyone to have a go in spending a memorable night there. It was true wilderness, being surrounded by mountains and the sound of silence ringing through the night. Not a single light spotted around the house!

Day 3/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Skelwith Fold to Rosthwaite - 15 May 2010

2010-05-19T12:14:00.023+01:00

24.2km, took 6.5 hours

A very comfortable night's rest at the Farm and a good breakfast started my day off. Fantastic weather indeed - breezes and stronger winds at higher elevations and valleys; sunny :). I had a brief look around the Farm's huge garden before finding my track back to the official route at Skelwith Bridge.

The classic view of Elterwater was like a picture. Beauty! Even though the initial route to Elterwater village was flat and packed with the weekend walkers, the scenery was superb! I detoured slightly to Elterwater YHA to purchase a bottle of water. I would need that for the tough bit to come in the later part of today's walk.

The next section of the walk up Great Langdale to Dungeon Ghyll was at its glorious best. It felt like a mini Great Wall of China, climbing across the fellside, curving gently left until quite suddenly the Langdale Pikes appeared in all their rugged glory. It was a splendid sight all the way, and the descent to Dungeon Ghyll was fantastic as well.

The best section of the Cumbria Way continued with an easier (but rocky) walk into the vast rock cathedral of Mickleden, followed by the most challenging part I was looking forward to: the zig-zag, steep, sharp climb over Stake Pass into the wild Langstrath valley! Langstrath is one of the bleakest and stoniest of Lakeland valleys, almost treeless and with little on the smooth fell sides to excite the walker's eyes. It was better than expected; also more tiring than expected. I panted my way up to the top, and paused several times to catch my breath. The view back was astonishing! Wind picked up with more ascent. It reminded me of the Devil's Staircase in Glencoe/Scotland, but I thought that the Stake Pass was more challenging.

After reaching the summit of the Stake Pass, the descent into Langstrath nearly killed me. I was intimidated by the height from the top, plus the exposed, steep zig-zags down. It was delightful but not very appealing to me. 152 m down in less than 400 m. As rated by the painter, W. Heaton Cooper, it is the "wildest, rockiest, most colourful and interesting mountain stream in England".

It was a great relief when I reached the foot. The next section was along a rough and stoney track which measured wearily through a wasteland of weathered blocks of stone. It was painful on my toes/feet, even though the path looked straightforward.

The lengthy track finally joined Greenup Gill where I met another walker resting (Edward from US). He asked for the direction to Rosthwaite which was also my destination for the day. I noticed he was using the Inn Way Lake District guide book. We struck up a conversation and walked to Rosthwaite together. Edward bought me a pint at the pub at Rosthwaite. My Carling! After chilling, we headed to Borrowdale YHA which was located at the outskirts of the village. It was a lovely hostel - one of the better and bigger ones. Had my self-prepared dinner with Edward in the dining room, before I started my revision there later in the night. I have to repeat this: The walk today was superb! Have fallen in love with rambling, and how I wish I could do it for a living!

Day 2/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Coniston to Skelwith Fold - 14 May 2010

2010-05-19T10:48:00.015+01:00

15.6km, took 4.5 hours

A wet cool day, foggy as well. Unexpectedly, the day was perfect for walking. I trotted on slowly, enjoying the peaceful greenery around me with low hanging fog covering the surrounding hills. I left the village of Coniston after getting some groceries and browsing through some of the interesting gift shops.

A steady climb began out of the foggy village through patches of woodland. I was taking my own sweet time, strolling... This is something I hardly do when I hike usually. I was loving the fresh air, especially due to the constant drizzle. It felt fantastic! The terrain was soft under feet, making the walk a comfortable one. I began chanting on my exam revision after doing some memorising the night before. What an interesting way to spend my revision time!

I climbed up to Tarn Hows Cottage and had forgotten to take a left turn shortly after, causing a terrible mistake: I climbed down about 100+ m, and arrived at a road that was leading back to Coniston. I couldn't believe I could make such a blunder! I was heading the exact opposite direction! This mistake wasted nearly an hour extra, incurred an extra 100+ m climb and about 1.5 miles of detour. Gosh!

Fortunately I took an another route which led me back to Tarn Hows - Lakeland's man-made miracle. It appeared very peaceful and mysterious in the fog. Lovely, I lingered a while and rejoiced! The track proceeded on along the west side of the tarn, some road-walking going up and down, and finally a steep descent through woodland. It led me to Skelwith Force (waterfall).

Here I left the Way and started finding my directions to Skelwith Fold where Holmeshead Farm B&B was situated. The route involved more climbs and was further than expected. Upon arrival, it was rest time, washing up, TV time, lunch/dinner time and....mm...study time. Had a pleasant night given an ensuite double room. Heaven!

Day 1/6 Cumbria Way 127km - Ulverston to Coniston - 13 May 2010

2010-05-18T22:12:00.026+01:00

25.6km, took 7 hours

It was an icy morning (-1 degC) despite the approaching summer months. I jumped out of bed and caught the 0649 train to Ulverston, changing twice at Carlisle and Lancaster. The temperature rose as time passed; bright cheerful sun shining through the train windows; and myself doing my exam revision (sadly). It was a lovely beginning; lots of anticipation and I couldn't wait to get out to the wilderness again. It would be my second last long hike before I return to Singapore.

I was 'welcomed' by a band (made up of old people) at the town centre of Ulverston. A lovely self-sufficient town indeed! I found my way to the Gill - where the Cumbria Way commenced. It was across and over farmland for the first 7 miles. It was quite hard navigating at times as walls/fences acted as boundaries which I wouldn't be able to cross if I took an alternative/wrong route. Also met a few couples walking. Chatted :). They were doing sections of the Cumbria Way; some were surprised that I was doing the whole Way, but it had been a 'routine' to me already. Hehee.. Excitement within me slowly faded away as my feet grew tired and it seemed that blisters might form too. Mmmmm...how come? Climbing over stiles and ladders, opening/shutting gates and fences were tedious, and some were so stiff...I hated it!

The best part of the Way came as the Way made a more rugged climb to the Blawith Fells and the 'so-blue' Beacon Tarn appeared before my eyes, impressing me. Scenery was perfect then, surrounded by mountains and waters. The highest mountain was 'Old Man of Coniston'. That funny name kept ringing in my mind. How interesting! It seemed very distant then, but I knew I would be heading to Coniston today - probably around that old man as well. Haha... I took the more challenging eastern side of Beacon Tarn (instead of the official west side). It was drier and more interesting, having to find my way along a narrow rocky path. Fun!

For the next section, I took on the higher route (wrong one!) by mistake, but had no regrets making the extra climb above Torver Tarn, and was surrounded by the magnificent mountains around me. Coniston Water appeared to my right shortly after. I managed to re-join the correct track, thankfully.

The last part of today's walk was along Coniston lakeshore. It reminded me of Scotland - Great Glen Way (alongside lochs) and West Highland Way (alongside Loch Lomond). The lake was calm of course, hardly any sign of boats, until I was approaching Coniston where a few were visible. Had to do a detour before arriving at the village - had no idea why there was no stile to the main road. It was frustrating! Anyway, the village was quite packed with people enjoying the sunny day. I bought some groceries from the village store before making my way to Holly How YHA to check in. It was a lovely YHA - no complaints :). I had to do some revision now, despite my exhausion and sore shoulders...Hiaz...

North Pennines 22.2km Walk - Langdon Beck to Dufton - 12 Apr 2010

2010-04-13T14:16:00.026+01:00

22.2km, 461m ascent, took 4.75 hours

This day's walk is a repeat of one of the best days of the Pennine Way. I had told myself then, that I'll be back to see High Cup Nick again, and here I am again! I had chosen a sunny day for this walk, hoping to capture the best photos possible - however, it turned out to be too hot (can u believe that it hit 28 degC!!?!!) I was fearful of getting a bad tan, so I was all 'wrapped up' throughout the hike, despite the scorching heat trapped beneath my jacket. It even caused my nose to bleed...Far too hot!!!

For reference to the route, refer to my previous blog at: http://dodo-the-rambler.blogspot.com/2009/08/day-1320-pennine-way-429km-langdon-beck.html

I got myself at Langdon Beck YHA (starting point), after a hassle of hopping from a coach (Newcastle to Barnard Castle) to a bus (to Middleton) and finally to a private van (to Langdon Beck). I got my food supplies from Middleton Co-Op.

The hike began at 1.30pm, and I 'cheonged' all the way (running/ jogging/ brisk walking). I knew the route too well by now - it was my 2nd time here, and I didn't have to refer to any maps. I had taken 6 hours to complete 22.2km last year which was already considered fast. Hence I expected an ETA of 7.30pm. Despite several pauses for photo/ video shoots, I completed the same distance in 4.75 hours this time round. My stamina had indeed improved (after yesterday's Hadrian's Wall hike), but the main reason was the lighter backpack, and maybe the familiarity of the route too.

Crossed some muddy places as well as several streams/ waterfalls, but the boots and gaiters kept my feet dry. :) I hardly saw any souls along the way, probably due to a weekday. Hence I'd got the wonderful peaceful surroundings all to myself.

Excitement wasn't as great when I approached Cauldron Snout (waterfall) and High Cup Nick (the 2 highlights of the day). I guess there are many things in life that we just have to do it 'ONCE in a lifetime', and walking the Pennine Way is one of them.

I stayed in Hall Croft B&B (4-star) for the night: wonderful facilities and hospitality. I would be catching the train from Appleby back to Newcastle tomorrow morning, and the B&B host offered to give me a lift to the train station which was 3 miles from Dufton. How sweet!

Hadrian's Wall 16km Walk - Greenhead to Housesteads - 11 Apr 2010

2010-04-11T22:43:00.022+01:00

Today marked the 2nd Brotherhood Ramblers' Hike (less Faith). It was a fantastic day; We've got the best of everything: plenty of sunshine with cool breezes, challenging enough to get the 'pants' out of us, great company :)

Forced myself (or ourselves) out of bed early to catch the AD122 Hadrian's Wall Bus - a 2 hour ride to Greenhead (our start-off point was the Roman Army Museum). The exhaustive climbing began soon after. Passed several quarries, crags, milecastles, farms, fort, ... There was not a single part that was boring. Even before boredom was allowed to set in, we were into some steep ascents/ descents - which really pushed our thigh muscles and stamina to their limits!

We walked along the best-preserved part of the wall. Beautiful photos taken - see for yourself! Even though it was just a wall, it looked unique with every climb, every turn we made. Amazing indeed!

The first section (from Greenhead to Once Brewed) was what I missed out during my last summer's Pennine Way hike (due to a short detour). I was glad that I'd done it now...at least I could say confidently that I'd see the entire Pennine Way route. As for the second bit (beyond Once Brewed), it was a repeat of what I'd done. However it felt great walking through the route once again - brought back sweet memories. It made me wonder how I managed to complete the Pennine Way previously. I must be crazy!

Anyway, to end off, a highlight of the day: We met a walker who chatted with us. He found out we were Singaporeans, and then he mentioned about LKY. Next question was: "Is LKY still alive?" Lol....